LA Choppers Tech

New handlebars are the single fastest way to change how your Harley looks and how it feels to ride. But ordering bars without understanding fitment is how riders end up with a set that won't clamp, won't clear the fairing, or leaves the throttle binding at full lock. This guide walks you through every measurement, every wiring style, and every fitment check — so your LA Choppers bars bolt on right the first time.

Part 1: The Seven Measurements That Matter

Before you shop, grab a tape measure and know these numbers on your current setup. If you like where your hands sit today, these measurements are your baseline. If you don't — now you know what to change. Every LA Choppers product page lists end rise, width, pullback, and center width so you can compare apples to apples.

1.Bar Diameter (at the Risers)

1" is the Harley standard — virtually every modern Harley-Davidson uses 1" risers and 1" controls. Our 1-1/4" fat bars look beefier through the center; on standard fat bars the mounting section necks down to 1" for stock-style risers, while Hefty bars stay a full 1-1/4" at the clamp — stronger and cleaner, but plan for the matching risers. Either way, the control and grip areas are always 1".

Measure it: Use a caliper or measure straight across the open end of the bar tubing.

2.Overall Width

Tip to tip, straight across, at the widest point. A good starting point is bar width close to your shoulder width — it keeps your wrists neutral and your arms relaxed. Baggers and cruisers typically run wider (33"–39"); narrow builds and lane-friendly bars like our Narrow Z run tighter.

Measure it: Ruler or tape, end of grip to end of grip.

3.Rise

The number everyone quotes — when a rider says they're running "14s," this is it. Rise is measured from the bottom of the bar to the top of the end rise — not to the highest bend in the middle, and never with the bar lying flat.

Measure it: Stand the bar vertically on a flat surface against a wall, positioned the way it sits on the bike, and measure straight up from the ground to the center of the grip-end tubing.

4.Pullback

How far the grips sweep back toward you, measured from the front plane of the bar straight back to the grip tip — with the bar held at its mounted angle. More pullback means a more upright seating position and less forward lean. Shorter riders, or riders with shorter arms, usually benefit from more pullback. Don't tough it out reaching for bars that are too far away — that's how you end up with sore shoulders 50 miles into a ride.

Measure it: Stand the bar against a wall at mounting angle and measure from the wall to the grip end.

5.Center Width

The width across the bottom of the bar where it clamps in, before the bends start. This one bites people on batwing-fairing Touring models (Street Glide, Electra Glide, Ultra) — the fairing only has room for so much bar. That's exactly why our Twin Peaks bagger bars exist: shaped and sized to clear the batwing with the correct wire exit locations. If your bike wears a fairing, shop the Touring-specific bars first.

6.Riser Spacing

3-1/2" centers are the Harley standard, and LA Choppers bars fit most models with risers on 3-1/2" centers. Springer front ends run wider riser spacing and need bars made for it — confirm before ordering.

7.Clamping Area Diameter

Measure the tube right where your risers grab it: 1" on standard LA Choppers bars, 1-1/4" on the Hefty series. Match your risers accordingly — or grab a set of LA Choppers risers built for the bar you want.

Part 2: Wiring & Throttle — Know Your Bike Before You Buy

How your wires and throttle work determines which bar configuration you need. The good news: most LA Choppers bars are drilled for internal wiring, notched for electronic throttle, and compatible with H-D heated grips and hydraulic clutch right out of the box. But know your bike:

Throttle-by-Wire (TBW)

Late-model Harleys (most Touring models 2008-up, M8-era Softails, and others) use an electronic throttle — no cables. These bikes require a bar with machined notches on the throttle side that index the TBW throttle sleeve. Most LA Choppers bars come TBW-notched.

Internal Wiring (Drilled)

Holes machined into the bar so wiring routes inside the tubing for a completely clean cockpit. Standard on most LA Choppers bars. Pro tip: our Wire Kit Pro Hero makes fishing wires through tall bars dramatically easier.

Pre-Wired Bars

Want to skip the wire-fishing entirely? LA Choppers Pre-Wired handlebars — like the pre-wired Apes and Hammerhead bars for Touring models — come with extended wiring already routed through the bar. Plug in and ride.

Dimpled

A recess pressed into the bar near the grip area gives switch-housing wiring room to pass under the housings on cable-throttle bikes. Select LA Choppers bars are dimpled and drilled for these applications — check the product listing for your fitment.

Part 3: The LA Choppers Lineup — Find Your Style

The honest trade-off: rise costs control. A 16" ape puts your hands above your heart — looks incredible, but you'll feel it in slow-speed maneuvers. 10"–12" rises are the sweet spot for most riders: the look, most of the comfort, and shorter cable extensions.

How to choose: Sit on your bike. Close your eyes. Put your hands where you want them. Have a buddy measure rise, pullback, and width to that position. Now you're shopping with real numbers instead of guessing from photos.

Shop All Handlebars Shop Touring Bars

Part 4: Cables, Lines, and Wiring — We've Done the Math For You

Taller or further-back bars need longer everything. Here's the rough rule:

The easy button: LA Choppers Handlebar & Cable Kits. Instead of calculating cable lengths yourself, our complete kits pair the bars with the correct-length clutch line, brake lines, and wire extensions for your exact year and model — including ABS and non-ABS versions. One box, one weekend, done. We also offer standalone cable/brake line kits and handlebar wiring extension kits if you're piecing your own build together.

The test that matters either way: with everything mounted, turn the bars full lock to full lock. Cables and lines need visible slack at both extremes, the throttle must snap closed freely, and nothing should pull tight or pinch. ABS-equipped bikes: brake line changes mean a proper brake bleed — factor it into the job, or grab the ABS-specific kit for your model.

Shop Cable & Line Kits

Part 5: Pre-Order Fitment Checklist

Run through this before you click "buy":

• Know your clamp spec: 1" standard or 1-1/4" Hefty (and matching risers if Hefty)
• Riser spacing (center-to-center) is equal to or less than the bar's clamping area width
• Standard 3-1/2" centers confirmed — or springer-specific bars if you run a springer
• Throttle type confirmed: TBW-notched for electronic throttle, dimpled/drilled for cable throttle
• Batwing fairing? Shop Twin Peaks / Touring-specific bars for guaranteed clearance
• Rise measured the right way — and +2" if switching from U-bars to T-bars
• More than ~2" over stock? Grab the handlebar & cable kit for your year/model
• Width roughly matches your shoulders (or your build's intent)

Stock 1" Harley controls, throttle, heated grips, and grips? Those fit every bar we make. Check that box and move on.

Part 6: Installation Basics

Step 1 — Strip the Old Bars

Remove grips first. Billet grips: loosen the set screws. Rubber grips: compressed air under the edge pops them off — or slice them with a razor if you're replacing them anyway. On cable-throttle bikes, it's often easier to loosen the housing, detach the throttle cables, and slide the whole throttle tube off, grip and all; TBW bikes, unplug and remove the throttle assembly per your service manual. Then remove mirrors, switch housings, and lever clamps. If the wiring won't let a control slide off yet, leave it hanging — you'll get slack in the next step.

Step 2 — Loosen the Risers

If your risers bolt from below, break those bottom nuts loose first while the bars are still clamped — the bars give you leverage. Remove the top riser clamps slowly while supporting the bar (this is the moment bars meet tanks; the towel earns its keep here). Slide the bar over to free any controls still attached, then remove the bar.

Step 3 — Install in Reverse

Set the new bar in the risers, clamps snug but not torqued, and dial in your angle. (On Hefty Touring fitments, you don't even need to remove the stock pin in the OEM mount clamps — you've still got 35+ degrees of adjustment.) Run your wiring — internal if your bars are drilled, with extensions where needed — then transfer controls, throttle, switches, mirrors, and grips. Full-lock test both directions: cable slack, line clearance, no tank or fairing contact, no pinched wires. Torque the riser clamps to spec, confirm the throttle snaps closed, and verify your front brake light switch works.

Quick Answers

Will my stock Harley controls fit LA Choppers bars?

Yes. Every LA Choppers Harley-fitment bar uses a 1" control area, so stock switch housings, levers, throttle, heated grips, and grips transfer straight over.

Do your fat bars need special risers?

Standard 1-1/4" bars have a 1" mounting section — stock-style 1" risers work. Hefty bars clamp at a full 1-1/4" and need matching risers (Touring/Road Glide Hefty bars work with the OEM riser and clamps).

How do I know if I need TBW bars?

No throttle cables on your bar = throttle-by-wire. Most LA Choppers bars come TBW-notched — check the product page for your fitment.

Can I keep my stock cables with taller bars?

Usually yes, up to about 2" of added height. Beyond that, our handlebar & cable kits include everything pre-sized for your year and model.

I have a Street Glide / Electra Glide — will tall bars clear my fairing?

That's what Twin Peaks bars are built for: batwing clearance with correct wire exit locations, in rises from 8" to 16".

Still not sure?

Send us your year, model, and the bars you're eyeing. We'll confirm fitment before you spend a dime.

Handcrafted in the USA — ride your own ride, and run the bars that fit it.
LA CHOPPERS